Turbo? Or SuperCharger?

In simplistic terms, your engine functions as an air pump. The more air and fuel that is pumped through, the more power your engine can make. In order to pump the air, pressure on the intake side must be higher relative to pressure going out the exhaust. In a naturally aspirated engine, valve timing events are used to create pressure. Since you are reading this article, you are probably not interested in naturally aspirated engines, so we can leave it at that. That said, we can all agree that it makes no sense to build a naturally aspirated performance engine. From a performance standpoint, it would generally make sense to use some means to pressurize the intake, while using some means to decrease the pressure in the exhaust path. The second part is easy; almost everyone and their brother has some type of exhaust work. The first job is a little trickier. Fortunately we have superchargers and turbochargers to save the day. A crankshaft driven supercharger will most definitely increase the pressure on the intake side of the engine. Since it is limited to the intake track, it will not adversely affect the pressure in the exhaust. The pressure on the intake side should always be greater than the pressure in the exhaust. However, power doesn't come free, and you must use some of that new found torque to spin the supercharger. How much that takes is calculable, but is purely academic because significant power is netted. In the case of positive displacement superchargers, boost can be had at very low RPMs, and in the case of the centrifugal and screw supercharger, good efficiency can be had. Other reasons to choose a supercharger are that the retrofit to an NA car should be smoother because there are no changes to be made to the exhaust path. The power curve is predictable because boost is largely dependent on RPM of the motor and not some less tangible factor such as engine load.

Now why would anyone want a turbocharger? Turbocharger systems are more complex because they require revision to the intake and exhaust sides of the motor. From the air pump standpoint, at first glance they seem to be inferior to a supercharger as you are placing a restriction in the exhaust flow path (i.e. the turbine). Given what we know of centrifugal compressor efficiency at low RPMs, there may be a significant portion of the rev range before the turbocharger will reach its threshold and begin to create boost (this is what "lag" is). However the relative independence from engine RPM is the turbocharger's greatest advantage over any other supercharger type. Boost can be reset with ease, and therefore tunability is also greatly increased as compared to a crank driven unit. While the adiabatic efficiency of the compressor may not be as great as that of a screw type supercharger, the drive mechanism is much more efficient, as a turbocharger relies on utilization of largely wasted kinetic energy in the exhaust gases. All of this combines to form a versatile, tunable unit that has the potential to make more power than a crank driven supercharger. So a turbocharger must be superior to a crank driven supercharger, right? If that was the case the crank driven supercharger would have died out long ago.

For all out power the turbocharger reigns supreme, but life unfortunately is full of compromises. Packaging is a huge concern during a retrofit of forced induction onto an NA motor, and in that instance the crank driven supercharger has the turbocharger beat handily. The user must decide on his or her priorities and decide from there which is best either a supercharger or turbocharger. We hope this article about superchargers and turbochargers was helpful. B2B Electric Supercharger is your leading authority for real do it yourself (DIY) electric supercharger plans. Our plans are real and will allow you to make a supercharger capable of increasing the performance of your naturally aspirated engine. Avoid all the electric supercharger scams with our real horsepower solution.

Comments are encouraged

Qlink XP 200 Dual Sport Motorcycle Review

First off let me start off by saying that i am in no way endorsed by Qlink to write this review.

I recently came upon a good deal on craigslist, I found a 2009 Qlink XP200 for $850.00
i figured what the heck i may as well scoop it up.

I have been eyeing these bikes for 2 years now ever since i got my Suzuki Drz-400s
And have done a ton of research on them and on the company the manufactures them.

Qingqi - The manufacture believe it or not makes and manufactures a good portion of
Suzuki's 250cc and less motors, the 125's etc.

So this Qlink xp200 Essentially uses the same exact Engine as the DR200, But there is a catch.

Suzuki isn't going to just let them use there technology and steal business!!
the Qinqi's 200cc Single cylinder air cooled motor is 98% the same as the dr200 suzuki.

Compression ratios are the same
Gearing is the same
Clutch is the same

Literally everything except a few things....

The cam's in the Qingqi's 200cc had to be de-tuned
as well as the Mikuni Carburetor is a few mm smaller

This was most likely the only way suzuki would allow them to use there engine's in these bikes
as the cam de-tune and smaller carburetor cause about 4-6 lost horse power making it about 4 HP Shy of the dr.

A Snap Shot of my Qlink XP200

After it's all said and done i have about 900 Kilometers on the bike so far and it has impressed me.

It get's amazing gas mileage
it's suitable for highway as long as it's geared right
the build quality is that of the lower end japanese dual sports ( dr200 , klx250s ) etc.
it starts up better then any bike i have ever owned.
and it looks amazing as well.

I can not help but recommend this bike it is everything i thought it would be and some.

Chinese manufactures are coming a long way and i wonder what they will be pumping out 5 years from now.

Comments / Questions are welcomed and encouraged

Performance Chips and how they Save Gas

The BMW performance chip is amazing, the design of the chip installes perfectly to the engine. Remove the performance chip from the package and plug into the iat sensor. The iat is located around the mass air flow sensor. If the iat is separated it will be located on the air tube itself and you should be able to find a picture of it in your hanes guide.

Locate the positive and negative cables and remove them. They simply pull right out. The two wires are made to be removed and tied back for this performance chip to be installed.

After plugging the chip in, reinstall the battery and start the car and let it idol for about ten minutes. If it is idling good and the engine sounds like everything is flowing OK your ready to give it a test drive.

As soon as you get the BMW performance chip in you will notice an immediate increase in horse power in every gear. first gear is amazing the horse power that is increased is nearly double and second and third are extremely powerful as well. Fourth and fifth gear come quick and that is when you will notice that the car is gaining gas mileage over regular drives.

Disconnect the batter so the the chip is not exposed to any current of electricity when you first plug it in. If by any chance you do fry the chip you can use the lifetime warranty that comes with each chip to get a new one. But a good rule of thumb is to just unplug the battery before installing the chip.

The BMW performance chip send out a signal that with in 1 second is returned to the ECU of the engine. This signal reprograms the car and changes the fuel, oxygen, and spark levels to enhance the motor and change the factory setting to maximum gain. If the BMW performance chip is removed the original settings will become active again.

By using oxygen more efficiently extra horse power is gained, generally 35 to 55 and the cars overall miles per gallon is increased by 15.

This also improves the engine life of the BMW motor. Running on a better fuel ratio is beneficial to the longevity of the car life. This chip will save you money in the long run by depleting chemicals from the engine of the car.